VMSS × SJC · IKON Series · DIY reference guide
How to install IKON headlights on a BMW
The full home install in one place: battery off, bumper off, old lamps out, IKONs in, test, refit, aim. Filmed on an F8X M3 / M4; the procedure is the same on most BMWs.
Installation footage: FCP Euro, F82 M4. Captions and procedure notes by VMSS.
The home install, step by step.
Allow around two hours, work on level ground and keep every screw with the panel it came from. Filmed on an F8X M4; the order is the same on most BMWs.
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01
Prep: photos, tools, battery off
Check both lamps for transit damage and photograph each one from every angle, including our batch label on the big rear driver module, on the sticker on top of the headlight and on the product box; this is what your warranty is registered against and it is hard to reach once fitted. Tools: T25 and T30 Torx, 8 mm, 10 mm and 17 mm sockets, a trim tool, and a 6 mm hex for the aiming at the end. Lights and ignition off, key away from the car, then disconnect the negative battery terminal in the boot.
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02
Weather strip and top screws
Bonnet up. Pull off the rubber weather strip along the top of the bumper. Along that edge there are three sets of fixings: 2 × T25 per side holding the bumper to the headlight, 2 × T30 per headlight on the alignment bracket, and 6 × T30 top screws securing the bumper itself. Remove them all and keep them in labelled piles.
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03
Wheels and fender liners off
Slacken and remove the 6 × 17 mm lug nuts on each front wheel and lift the wheels off: it is the only comfortable way at the liners. Remove the 8 × 8 mm screws on each fender liner and pull the liners out of the way.
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04
Release the bumper from the wings
Behind each liner, remove the 2 × 8 mm bolts holding the bumper to the front wing. If your car has a front camera, watch for its loom here. Pull each corner of the bumper gently outwards to release it from the wing slide clips.
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05
Take the bumper off
Unclip the headlight washer jets on both sides, unplug both fog light connectors and the camera if fitted, and remove the remaining 8 mm screws along the bottom of the bumper. The bumper now comes away: lift it clear with a helper and lay it face-up on a blanket.
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06
Old headlight out
Each headlight is held by 2 × T30 screws and 1 × 10 mm bolt at the top. The T30s are thread-locked, so unscrewing alone will not do it: keep pulling the screw firmly outwards as you turn it. Press the tab, unplug the connector and lift the lamp out.
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07
IKON in, plugged in, left loose
Seat the IKON, start the 10 mm bolt and both T30 screws, but leave all three loose for now: it gets aligned to the bumper later. Plug in the connector until it clicks. Repeat steps 6 and 7 on the other side.
F8X M3 / M4 owners: the right-hand loom is short. Cut the zip tie holding it to make slack; if the connector still will not reach, follow the loom back into the engine bay and re-route it under the air filter box, or around it, by the shortest path. Never stretch or force the connector.
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08
Test with the bumper still off
Reconnect the battery and switch on: DRL, dipped beam, main beam, indicators, then flash the high beams to cycle the DRL colours. Everything should work straight away. A rare dashboard message with all functions working is a coding notice, not a fault, and is cleared with our free remote coding. Sort anything odd now, while the lamps are easy to reach.
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09
Bumper back on, headlights aligned
Everything goes back in reverse, and do not miss any clips. Offer the bumper up, click the corners onto the wing rails, refit the lower 8 mm screws, the fog connectors, washer clips and camera. Before the top screws go in, align each headlight so it sits flush with the bumper and the bonnet, then tighten its 10 mm and two T30s. Refit the fender liners (8 × 8 mm each), the 2 × 8 mm wing bolts, the wheels (6 × 17 mm, torqued), then the 6 × T30 top screws, the alignment brackets and the 2 × T25 per side. Press the weather strip back on starting from the centre and working outwards: if it is not seated it leaves a gap between bonnet and bumper.
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10
Aim the low beam on a wall after dark
Do this last, and do it in the dark. Headlights can shift in transit, so never skip it. Park on level ground square on to a wall about 5 metres away, dash beam-height dial on 0, car normally loaded. Put a strip of tape on the wall at the height of the lens centre. On dipped beam the sharp top edge of the beam should sit about 5 cm below the tape (roughly a 1% drop) and be flat from side to side on a right-hand-drive car, with both lamps matching. Turn the 6 mm hex vertical adjuster on the back of each lamp until it does (by hand, or with an electric driver and a 6 mm hex bit at least 3 inches long), then check again after a week of driving.
Guide provided for information. Work carefully and within your ability; if in doubt, book a VMSS Verified Installer. Low beam alignment should always be checked after fitting, as headlights can shift in transit.
Rather have it fitted?
Book in with a VMSS Verified Installer near you, or pick the IKON set for your BMW.